Under relentless, cloudless skies, Tarangire National Park—famed for its baobab trees—presents a stark, sun-baked landscape. The intense sun drains moisture from the earth, turning it a dusty red and rendering the once-green grass brittle and straw-like. The Tarangire River, reduced to a mere shadow of its rainy season self, is nonetheless teeming with wildlife. Thirsty nomads have traversed vast distances across the parched land, knowing they can find water here.

Large herds of up to 300 elephants dig through the dry riverbed in search of underground streams, while migrating wildebeest, zebra, buffalo, impala, gazelle, hartebeest, and eland crowd the diminishing lagoons. This represents the highest concentration of wildlife outside the Serengeti ecosystem—a feast for predators. It is also the only place in Tanzania where dry-country antelope like the regal fringe-eared oryx and the unusual long-necked gerenuk are commonly seen.

During the rainy season, these migratory herds spread across a 20,000 square kilometer (12,500 square mile) range until the green plains are depleted and they return to the river. However, Tarangire’s elephant herds remain a constant presence, regardless of the season.

The park’s swamps, which retain a green hue year-round, support 550 bird species, making it the habitat with the most breeding bird species in the world.

On the drier terrain, you can find the Kori bustard, the heaviest flying bird; the stocking-thighed ostrich, the largest bird; and small groups of ground hornbills, which make a conspicuous appearance.

Bird enthusiasts should look out for flocks of the vividly colorful yellow-collared lovebird, as well as the more subdued rufous-tailed weaver and ashy starling—all endemic to the dry savannah of north-central Tanzania.

Abandoned termite mounds are frequented by charming dwarf mongooses and pairs of red-and-yellow barbets, which are known for their loud, mechanical duets.

In Tarangire, pythons, lions, and leopards are known to climb trees, lounging in the branches where the fruit of the sausage tree conceals the flick of a tail.